90 point ratings aside, DRC has a well deserved reputation as one of the finest pinot noir producers in the world. Many growers and producers have dreamt of creeping into the DRC vineyards in the dead of night and escaping with a field selection of their valuable clones.
Indeed, legend and lore surrounds the use of suitcase clones in the Russian River Valley. Our neighbor Joseph Swan Winery’s famous “Swan clone” is a good example, as its origins are unknown and shrouded in mystery. All that is certain is that the clone makes excellent pinot noir. Explanations for the origins of the clone include that it came from Mount Eden (Martin Ray Winery) or the UC Davis experimental vineyard in Oakville. Others have romantically (or perhaps scandalously, depending on which side of the Atlantic you’re on) alleged that the Swan Clone is actually a suitcase clone flown in from Burgundy. And not just any old vine from Burgundy, but from the world’s most famous vineyard, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti.
Although it may sound fantastic, stealing cuttings from DRC is not that hard. All that protects the vineyard from intruders and pilferers is a low stone wall. In 2004 students from the Viticulture and Enology Dept. at Davis visited DRC and noted:
The Romanée-Conti vineyard produces the most expensive red wine on the planet and yet is only surrounded by a low stone wall with no gates – anyone can walk up and touch the vines (or collect cuttings).
Swan himself added to the mystery surrounding the origin of his vineyard stock. According to John Haeger in his book North American Pinot Noir, Swan acknowledged the rumor without actually dispelling it saying that the story “that the original cuttings came from Romanée-Conti…is enthralling whether it is true or not.” Haeger also states, without actually detailing the nature of the evidence, that “there is good evidence that some additional plant material was introduced…after the initial planting, including vines quietly given to Swan by a Burgundian vintner.”
There are some details that suggest to me however, that the vines given to Swan were not from Romanée-Conti, the more convincing of which has to do with the vine pest phylloxera. The following is from the Davis field trip blog to DRC, and includes information taken directly from DRC co-owner Aubert de Vilaine.
The Romanée-Conti vineyard was torn out in 1945 and replanted in 1947, it was the last pre-phylloxera vineyard left in France. Up until the replant phylloxera was controlled with carbon sulfur…The replant was performed with cuttings taken from the vineyard before it was torn out. Much of the cuttings contain some levels of virus (15 out of 20 cuttings). Some level of virus is tolerated and virus pressure is considered to be part of the vineyard’s terroir. Clones are selected for their character and not their virus status. M. Vilaine believes that clones that contain virus act as if they have been vaccinated and are less prone to problems than clean clones, which become infected in the field.
Swan planted his vines in 1969, long after the phylloxera induced replant at DRC. And by DRC’s own admission 15 out of 20 of their current cuttings are infected with viruses. If Swan did plant virus infected clones in his vineyard he would have experienced multiple problems with his uninfected vines.
Whatever the truth may be regarding the Swan Clone, the fact is that “suitcase” planting occurs regularly in the Russian River Valley. Kistler is another producer who proudly states that some of their pinot clones come from Burgundy. In our vineyard there are even rumors that our south slope Pommard 4 clones are interspersed with some suitcase budwood, but I can confirm neither the veracity of the claim or the origins of the vines since no records were kept. And no one’s talking.
“Suitcase clone” stories are always great to hear. But you do have to remember that each clone will perform differently depending on the growing conditions. So you don’t make Romanée-Conti wine just because you are groing Romanée-Conti clone. The important thing is to find the clones that work best in your location.
wineguy -
Very true. Terroir encompasses much more than just the vine. It includes soil and water availability, climate, “virus pressure”, yield and winemaking tradition, among others.
If only it were true that we didn’t have to worry about virus int he old vines…….many appear clean but I am sure that they would test positive for something while with others it is very obvious come harvest time when there leaves are almost as red as the fruit, that there is something other than a little water stress going on. And it is true that we have some DRC vines in the vineyard. They are not the original old vines and I won’t reveal which vines they actually are (we like to keep the canes on the vines, where they belong!), they were a gift from Burgundy some years ago. In defense of the vigneron who brought them over, when I mentioned to him, some years later, that it was a crime he responded with shock and horror! (Of course this all occured before I was associated with the vineyard). And, as mentioned, site is everything. They, like the fruit from the rest of the vines, express the terroir of this particular site.
Nice to hear from the man himself! Thanks for filling me in Rod, and for putting up with the escaped dogs running through your wineyard at odd hours.
[...] I was looking back over some of the recent comments and noticed a very interesting one from Rod Bergland, the winemaker at our neighbor at Joseph Swan Winery. In an earlier post I expressed my doubts that Swan actually planted DRC clones in his vineyard due to the virus problems that would have resulted. Rod left a very interesting note that sets the record straight. [...]
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[...] is a clone of Pinot Noir) while others are given names based on their history (the “Swan” clone was taken from Joseph Swan’s vineyard) Many wines are a blend of a bunch of different clones. [...]