There have been a number of news stories on the effects of immigration on the wine industry the past few days.
The first story I read, on Sanluisobisbo.com and written by the Associated Press, does a good job of putting a human face on the plight of recently laid off vineyard workers. In an interview with vineyard worker Jorge de Haro, the article explores the effects of Charles Krug eliminating its in-house labor force and moving to contracted labor (vineyard management companies).
After 33 years of planting, pruning and harvesting grapes that make world-renowned wine, Jorge de Haro is about to lose the only job he’s ever had.
De Haro and his co-workers at Charles Krug’s Napa Valley vineyards are being replaced by field hands supplied by third-party contractors, part of a growing trend sweeping agricultural fields nationwide.
The article leaves the distinct impression that the move by Krug is indicative of a shift in the industry; one that may potentially cost laborers jobs and lower their wages. But it seems at odds two other articles, one linked to by Tom at Fermentation, and the second published yesterday in Decanter.
In the former, from the California Farm Bureau Federation, vineyard owner Joseph Ramazzotti is quoted as saying that there is a labor shortage, and that half of his seasonal workers from the past year haven’t returned.
In the latter, Decanter weighs in with an explanation for the shortage saying that “California grape growers are facing a harvest crisis as stepped-up US immigration enforcement limits the labour pool� and that “the problem is that labour costs are increasing.�
My only explanation for the discrepancy is that the AP story was probably influenced by the United Farm Workers Union. The UFW was unable to come to terms with Krug on a new labor agreement last year and many labor contractors are non-union, so they have a vested interest in playing up the move by Krug as harmful to workers. Fortunately, I don’t think this accurately reflects the state of the industry, which is generally very respectful and sensitive to the needs of vineyard workers.
If there does turn out to be a labor shortage, and anecdotal evidence contends that there will be, then Mr. de Haro hopefully won’t be out of work for long. Moreover, most local vineyard management companies do treat their employees fairly. Two I would single out especially are Silverado Farm Company in Napa, which offers a profit sharing arrangement and medical insurance to many emplyees, and our vineyard managers, Robledo Vineyard Management in Sonoma.
The Robledos, who I’ve written about before on this winery blog, are a family run operation. Reynaldo himself is an immigrant, and his daughter Vanessa Robledo is on the board of Directors of Vineyard Worker Services, a non profit organization that facilitates housing development and serves migrants and year-round-resident farm workers with essential services, referrals, and training. I know how they treat their workers (well), and by law we also must know how much their workers are paid, and I can attest that it is a competitive wage.
Much still depends on the immigration bill that does or doesn’t come out of congress. All in all, though there is always room for improvement, the situation in the near term for workers isn’t anywhere near as dire as the UFW wants us to believe.
