St. Julien is home to the highest proportion of classed growths of the four major communes of the Medoc. It is also the smallest of the communes. Located just south of Pauillac, the vineyards of the “Leoville� wines, those of Ch. Leoville-Las-Cases in this case, begin where those of Ch. Latour and Pichon-Lalande end. It is one of the reasons why Las-Cases in good years can out-price even first-growths. The “Leoville� wines, made up of Leoville-Las-Cases, Leoville-Poyferre, and Leoville-Barton, were at one time all part of the same vineyard. It was in 1823 that, due to financial difficulty, the vineyards were sold off. The Irish merchant Barton purchased a 50 ha lot, and then later purchased a 15 ha lot which is not Langoa-Barton. Though the wines have different labels, both are made in the cellars of Leoville-Barton. The current owner, Anthony Barton, who is 73 still resides in the chateau above the chaix (cellars). The grounds at the chateau are absolutely immaculate, and feature gardens combining both French and English floral traditionalism (meaning French hedges and roses, and English lawns where one can putt a golf ball—not to mention some cranky swans).
Compared to Ch. Palmer, Rauzan-Segla, and Lynch-Bages, the winemaking here is a bit more “classic.� The triage trays that are so prominently featured at other chateau are not found here. Nor is stainless steel. Oak tanks, which proudly go back thirty years, stand in their full, impractical glory. These tanks do not have racking valves, they have old wooden doors at least four feet up from the base of the tank, and use about 1.5 inch valves. Specially constructed cooling and heating plates are placed vertically inside the cuves. The wines spend about two weeks in tank while undergoing initial alcoholic fermentation and a few days of post-fermentation maceration. They undergo malolactic in tank, and are then barreled down. Both Langoa and Leoville Barton use only one cooper, Maury, for their barrels (70% new), something which certainly is not par for he course these days in Bordeaux.
The 2005’s reassuringly fit the stereotype for the wines. The Langoa-Barton, from grapes a little further inland from the river and typically possessing courser tannins, was exactly like it would typically is, just more so. The fruit seemed tight, while the intense tannins mated with the phenolic wood tones to create a dry, rather tough wine. I am sure the profile will change in a few years, but this seemed more youthfully awkward than its big brother.
The 2005 Leoville Barton, though also a bit like a Great Dane puppy in that it is all big paws and awkwardness, retained more suaveness. And if this is a Dane puppy it certainly is a Brindle Dane while the Langoa Barton was merely a Harlequin; its kaleidoscope of flavors seems to be created from a palate with more colors, shadings, tones, and depths. It has the muscle of riverside St. Julien but also, deeply buried in its youth, the kernels of suaveness and perfume that will manifest through the years to come. It is a beautiful wine.
Upon my return to Lynch-Bages I tasted through the white fermentations. Half of the whites are going into barrel for fermentation while other are going to percolate away en cuve. Then, it was to the intermarche to stock up food for the next few days. I love France, where fresh quail and foie gras cost less than steak or a good cut of pork. For dinner I prepared grilled quail stuffed with shallots, brioche, and foie gras and wrapped in prosciutto, grilled peaches, and a bed of lambs lettuce. Along with that, the swiss, belge, and I, polished off an exuberant 2003 Alter-Ego de Chateau Palmer. Absolutely delicious, and about 8 euros per person. In other words, I completely worked off any benefit my afternoon run may have offered. When in France…..run a lot.
